3D Printing FAQs

FDM (fused deposition modelling) printing is an additive 3D printing process in which objects are produced by depositing molten material layer by layer. It is one of the best-known and most widely used 3D printing technologies, primarily due to its cost efficiency and user-friendliness.

In FDM printing, a thermoplastic filament is extruded through a heated nozzle that deposits the material onto a build platform. The printer moves the nozzle precisely along the specified contours to create a layer of the object. After a layer is completed, the build platform (or nozzle, depending on the printer design) is lowered and the next layer is applied. This process repeats until the entire object is built.

Materials: A variety of thermoplastic materials can be used that are suitable for different applications. Examples include PLA for entry-level projects, ABS for mechanical parts or TPU for flexible objects.

Applications: FDM is often used in areas such as prototyping, modelling, mechanical engineering and in the hobby sector.

Warping is a common problem in FDM 3D printing, where the lower layers of a printed object detach from the build platform during printing and bend upwards. This phenomenon occurs due to stresses in the material that arise during the cooling process. Colder layers contract and affect the hotter ones, causing the model to detach from the printing plate and warp.

There are several causes of warping, mainly related to temperature, adhesion and print settings:

Main causes of warping

Uneven cooling: During printing, the molten filament cools down and shrinks slightly. If the cooling is too fast or uneven, stresses are created that cause the material to detach from the build platform. Warping often occurs particularly with materials such as ABS, which have a high shrinkage rate.

Lack of adhesion to the build platform: If the first layer does not adhere sufficiently to the build platform, it can detach and warp during printing.

Insufficiently levelled build platform: A poorly levelled platform will result in the first layer being applied unevenly, affecting adhesion and promoting warping.

Lack of or inadequate temperature control: Low or fluctuating temperatures in the build space or build platform prevent constant material adhesion and promote stress formation.

Measures to avoid warping

To avoid warping during 3D printing, there are various measures that affect both the adhesion of the model to the build platform and the temperature control. Better adhesion of the first layer is crucial, which is why adhesives such as glue sticks, hairspray, blue tape or special print bed coatings should be used. The build platform should also be clean to maximise adhesion.

Precise levelling of the build platform ensures that the first layer is applied evenly and flat, which reduces the risk of warping. Optimising the print bed temperature is equally important. The build platform should be heated to the recommended temperature for the filament used. For materials such as ABS or nylon, a closed printing chamber can help to minimise temperature fluctuations.

Slow and controlled cooling is also helpful, which is why the use of fans should be reduced, especially in the first few layers. A constant temperature in the build chamber helps to avoid stresses in the material. The slicer settings can also be adjusted by increasing the printing speed of the first layer and selecting a wider line width. Features such as "Brim" or "Raft" can be used to increase the contact area of the model on the build platform and thus improve adhesion. Finally, the choice of filament also plays a role. Materials such as PLA, which have a lower shrinkage rate, are less prone to warping and can be a good alternative for problematic prints.

By combining these measures, the risk of warping can be significantly reduced and the print quality improved.

Material distortion can occur with larger prints on spring steel printing beds, especially with wide first layers. Due to the strong forces acting on the model, the flexible printing plate can easily bend, even though the adhesion is excellent.

Here are some ways to solve the problem:

► Check deformation: Before you act, check how much and in which areas the print bed is warped. You can do this with a ruler or spirit level by placing it on the print bed and checking the gaps. For more precise measurements, you can use a sheet of paper or a feeler gauge to test the distance between the nozzle and the print bed at various points.

► Level the print bed: If the print bed is only slightly warped, manual levelling may be sufficient to compensate for the unevenness. Adjust the levelling screws under the build platform to achieve as even a height as possible. Nowadays, almost all printers support automatic bed levelling: use this to compensate for unevenness on the software side.

►Check the heating bed: Sometimes the cause is not in the actual print bed, but in an uneven heat distribution of the heating bed. Check that the heating mat is correctly installed and lies flat. If it is loose or damaged, replace it.

► Replace the print bed: If there is severe deformation, replacing the print bed is often the best solution. Choose a high-quality build platform made of materials such as glass, aluminium or PEI-coated steel. Glass beds, for example, are particularly flat and resistant to deformation, but less flexible than other materials.

► Use flexible building boards: Flexible magnetic build plates can level out minor unevenness and also make it easier to remove prints. They are simply placed on the existing platform and can partially conceal unevenness.

► Use software compensation: Many 3D printers offer the option of activating mesh bed levelling. The surface of the print bed is measured and the printer adjusts the Z-axis during printing to compensate for the unevenness.

For your magnetic printing surface, it is recommended to attach the magnetic base directly to the metal printing plate. This optimises the heat transfer between the heated bed and the printed model as there is no insulating layer in between. The metal printing plate is specifically designed to conduct heat efficiently, which is important for good adhesion and minimising warping during printing.

However, if your 3D printer has an integrated glass plate as part of the heated bed, as is the case with some Artillery printers, you should attach the magnetic base to the glass plate. In this case, the glass plate is the primary printing surface.

Tangled spools are a problem, but rarely occur as they are usually avoided by the automated spooling process. It occurs most frequently when the filament spool is opened for the first time and the filament is fed into the extruder. Particularly with rigid filaments such as PLA, the filament can become loose and tangled due to the tension on the spool. Flexible filaments are less affected by this, but with rigid materials such as PLA or composite filaments this happens more frequently and is of course very annoying.

If the filament is tangled, the printer continues to run normally and gradually pulls the tangled knot further and further until it eventually blocks and printing has to be stopped. Fortunately, the problem is easy to fix. You can simply unwind the filament, taking care to maintain the tension so that it doesn't get tangled up again. Continue unwinding until you find the point where the filament has become entangled and unravel it. Then check the entire filament for further tangles.

Once the filament is untangled, roll it up again evenly - making sure that the filament remains taut. Avoid winding the filament loosely around the spool, as this can cause it to become tangled again. The entire process should take no longer than 5-10 minutes, after which the filament will be perfectly usable again without any further problems.

Tip: On MakerWorld or similar platforms, you can find countless STL files for practical filament spool winders that you can print yourself and wind your knotted spools correctly again!

Layer shifts can usually be caused by incorrect settings or poorly tensioned belts. The belts must be well tensioned, not too loose, but not too tight either. Make sure that all screws on the axes are tightened and that the rails are clean and lubricated. In addition, the settings for speed, acceleration and jerk must be configured correctly. A good solution for layer shifts is often to reduce the acceleration and jerk and lower the print speed.

In many 3D printers, the bed is the heaviest moving part, which is why layer shifts often affect the bed first. Since the bed is often moved along the Y-axis, layer shifts are usually more likely to occur on the Y-axis than on the X-axis. Also check the power supply to the stepper motors and make sure that there are no loose cable connections. Finally, make sure that the print bed and printer are on a stable, vibration-free surface.

To find out where the problem lies, you can print a calibration cube. This will help to identify the affected area and fix the problem.

Choosing the right nozzle for a 3D printer depends on several factors, such as the desired level of detail, speed, material compatibility and the intended application of the printed object. Here are some guidelines:

►Nozzle size (diameter):

• small nozzles (0.2 mm to 0.3 mm): Ideal for detailed prints where fine structures are important. The disadvantage is that printing takes longer.
• Standard nozzles (0.4 mm): Universally applicable and suitable for most applications. These nozzles offer a good compromise between printing speed and attention to detail.
• large nozzles (0.6 mm to 1 mm): Well suited for large, less detailed objects where speed is more important than precision.

►Material selection:

• Brass nozzles: Good for standard filaments such as PLA, PETG and ABS. However, they wear out quickly with abrasive materials such as carbon fibre or wood filaments.
• Hardened steel: Recommended for abrasive materials as these nozzles are extremely wear-resistant. They are less thermally conductive, which can slightly increase the printing temperatures.
• Special nozzles (e.g. Ruby, CHT, ObXidian, DiamondBack, etc.): Intended for industrial applications or very demanding materials. They are durable but expensive.

► Specific requirements:

• High temperature prints: use nozzles designed for high temperatures (e.g. hardened steel for PEEK or PEI).
• Multi-material printing: If different materials are used, you should choose nozzles that can be cleaned easily.

Noctua fans are known for their quietness and efficiency, making them a popular choice for use in 3D printers. The ability to attach a Noctua fan to your 3D printer depends on several factors:

Compatibility with fan size: Noctua fans are available in different sizes (e.g. 40 mm, 60 mm, 80 mm, 120 mm). Your 3D printer must have a mount or bracket for the corresponding fan size or an adaptation (e.g. with a printed adapter) must be made.

Voltage: Most 3D printers use 12V or 24V fans. Make sure that the Noctua fan is compatible with the operating voltage of your printer. Noctua offers adapters or models designed for different voltages.

Connection type: Check whether the desired Noctua fan uses the same connector as the fan of your 3D printer (usually a JST or Molex connector).

Modifications: If the printer is not directly prepared for a Noctua fan, you could print out brackets or use adapters that allow the fan to be attached.

Stringing refers to the phenomenon where fine threads or strands of molten filament appear between different parts of a printed object. It happens during 3D printing when the print head is moved from one position to the next without actively extruding material. These strings occur because the molten material runs out of the nozzle, similar to a hot glue gun.

Stringing affects the aesthetics of a printed object and in some cases can limit functionality if the strings are difficult to remove. However, with optimised print settings and regular printer maintenance, stringing can be effectively avoided.

Causes of stringing:

• Insufficient retraction: If the filament is not sufficiently retracted during the movement of the print head, material remains in the nozzle and can escape uncontrollably.
• Print temperature too high: At high temperatures, the filament becomes more fluid and tends to drip out of the nozzle more easily.
• Movement speed: Movement speeds that are too slow can exacerbate the problem as the nozzle lingers longer over open areas.
• Print material: Some materials, like TPU or PETG, are more prone to stringing than others like PLA.

Here are a few tips on how to prevent stringing:

Optimise retraction settings:

• Retraction Distance: Increase the distance at which the filament is retracted. Typical values are 1-7 mm, depending on the printer and extruder type.
• Retraction Speed: Set a faster speed to ensure that the filament is quickly retracted from the nozzle.

Reduce print temperature:

• Reduce the printing temperature in small steps (e.g. 5 °C) to reduce the viscosity of the filament. Make sure that the material is still extruded cleanly.

Cleaning movement (wiping):

• Activate the coast or wipe function in the slicer so that the nozzle sweeps over the already printed material during retraction to remove filaments.

Increase print speed:

• Increase the movement speed (travel speed) between the print segments to prevent the nozzle from lingering long enough to pull threads. Values of 150-250 mm/s are often helpful.

Printer maintenance:

• Make sure the nozzle is clean and has no clogged or worn areas that could allow material to exit uncontrollably.

Material selection:

• If stringing occurs with certain materials, test alternative filament types or brands that are less prone to stringing.

Use a stringing test from an online database (e.g. Thingiverse) to adjust your settings. These tests often contain multiple towers that the printer cycles between so you can minimise stringing.

If the nozzle is too close to the print bed, problems such as scratches, blocked filament flow or adhesion problems can occur. To rectify this, the bed levelling should be checked first. Nowadays, most printers have automatic levelling. Manual levelling can be done using a sheet of paper: Position the nozzle over one corner of the bed, slide the paper in between and adjust the height so that it can be moved easily. Repeat this at all corners and in the centre.

Then adjust the Z-offset, i.e. the distance between the nozzle and the print bed. Increase this step by step (e.g. in 0.05 mm increments) until the distance is sufficient. This setting can be made directly on the printer or in the slicer. Also check the evenness of the heating bed; a glass plate can help if it is uneven.

A test print, such as a first layer calibration print, is helpful to check the settings. A correctly adjusted nozzle applies the filament evenly and flatly without it looking squashed or rolled up.

If the filament is not being fed correctly, there may be several causes. A clogged or partially blocked nozzle is often the reason. In this case, the nozzle should be cleaned with a cleaning needle or a cold pull. Problems with the extruder can also hinder the filament flow, such as dirty or worn gear wheels. Cleaning and readjusting the contact pressure can help here.

Too low a printing temperature also prevents the filament from melting completely, so the temperature should be adjusted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Moist filament can cause problems due to bubbles or irregular flow. Dry it in a suitable device or an oven at a low temperature. The extruder inlet should also be checked for filament residue and cleaned to avoid blockages. If the extruder does not grip the filament firmly enough, increase the contact pressure.

Excessive printing speeds can also impair the filament flow, so it is advisable to reduce the speed, especially with materials such as PETG or ABS. Finally, mechanical problems such as a defective or overheated extruder motor can also be the cause. In this case, check the motor and the cabling. With these measures, you can restore the filament flow and improve the print quality.

In the 3DJake webshop, you can find filaments that are compatible with the Bambu Lab AMS system in several ways.

• Search with the filter "Compatibility > Bambu Lab AMS",
• Search in the Bambu Lab AMS compatible filaments category,
• use the Bambu Lab AMS Guide with compatible spool sizes sorted by brand.

Note that compatibility is only given with certain spool sizes. In the Bambu Lab AMS Guide you can read exactly which spools are suitable for the multi-material system.

3D printing materials suitable for outdoor use must be weatherproof, UV-resistant and resistant to moisture. Materials such as PLA are less suitable for outdoor use as they are more susceptible to UV radiation and moisture. ASA, PETG, ABS, PA, PC and TPU, on the other hand, are more suitable for outdoor use, but their suitability depends not only on the material properties themselves, but also on the specific conditions and their processing. Without additional measures, the service life may be limited in extreme conditions (high UV radiation, constant moisture). We recommend checking filament-specific properties with the manufacturer or specifically using UV-stabilised variants.

The causes of a 3D printer overheating can be manifold. Here are some possible reasons:

Inadequate ventilation: the printer is set up in a poorly ventilated room, which means that heat is not dissipated effectively. Internal fans or cooling systems are not working properly.

Faulty components: The extruder or heating bed could heat up beyond the preset temperatures due to a defect. Temperature sensors could also be faulty and not provide correct values, causing the heating system to overcompensate.

Overloading of the power supply unit: If the printer has been fitted with components that require more power than the power supply can provide, this could lead to overheating.

Unsuitable ambient temperature: If the printer is operated in a room that is already warm, this will affect the overall temperature of the system.

Incorrect temperature settings: Temperature values for the nozzle or heating bed may be set too high in the printing software.

Contamination or blockages: Blockages in the extruder could hinder heat dissipation and cause localised overheating.

Outdated or faulty firmware: The firmware could be faulty or require an update, as outdated firmware may no longer regulate the temperature control correctly.

Insufficient material flow: If the filament does not flow evenly, overheating could occur at the nozzle.

►Possible solutions:

• Check the fans and ensure that all cooling systems are functional.
• Check the firmware and update if necessary.
• Check the temperature sensors and cabling.
• Ensure that the temperature parameters are set correctly in the printing software.
• Clean the extruder and check for blockages.

Support structures are an essential tool in 3D printing to successfully realise complex geometries and challenging designs. They are mainly needed to support overhangs, free-floating parts and other areas of a model that do not have sufficient support during the printing process.

A typical use case for support structures are overhangs that deviate more than 45° from the vertical axis. Without support, the filament would hang in the air and sink, which can lead to deformations or incomplete areas. They are just as important for free-floating parts, such as the arms of a figure or horizontally protruding elements. Without supports, these areas would have no base on which the filament can be applied.

Support structures are also used for complex geometries, such as models with internal cavities, interrupted components or interlocking structures. Here, they help to ensure the integrity of the model during the printing process. Supports also improve the print quality in difficult areas, as they prevent the filament from sagging in the case of overhangs or bridges. They also provide stability for large or unstable models to prevent the object from warping or tilting during printing.

To utilise support structures effectively, slicing software offers various options. You can activate supports only for overhangs and adjust parameters such as density, spacing and material type to achieve an optimal balance between stability and ease of removal. For particularly demanding prints, soluble material such as PVA can be used. This material is printed with dual-extrusion printers and can be easily dissolved with water after printing.

There are situations in which support structures are not required. Optimised models that are designed to minimise or support overhangs often do not require additional supports. Some FDM printers and filaments can easily handle smaller overhangs (up to 45°). Materials with high adhesion, such as PETG or TPU, also make it easier to print such geometries without additional support.

Filament remnants do not have to be thrown away, as there are various creative and useful ways to utilise them. Filament remnants are ideal for smaller print projects such as miniatures, key rings or spare parts. They can also be used for multi-coloured prints by manually changing colours during printing to create interesting colour layering or colour change effects.

If you are technically savvy, you can even recycle remnants. With special devices, filament remnants can be melted down and processed into new filament spools or filament pellets. Even without a recycling device, remnants can be used for welding work, for example to repair damaged prints or join broken parts - a 3D printing pen or soldering iron is ideal for this.

Filament remnants also provide a great basis for DIY and craft projects. They can be used for decorative objects, jewellery or modelling projects, such as dioramas or detailed work. Even practical items for everyday use, such as cable holders, hooks or key rings, can be printed from the scraps. They are also ideal for testing printing parameters such as temperature and speed or for printing calibration objects.

Filament remnants are a valuable resource for children and educational projects. They can be used as craft materials or in workshops and school projects to teach the basics of 3D printing. Artists and designers can also use the scraps for upcycling projects or sculptures. Collages or mixed artworks also benefit from the versatile properties of the filament pieces.

Filament remnants are therefore much more than just waste - they offer numerous possibilities for creative, functional and sustainable applications. It's worth keeping them and using them in new projects!

There is a wide range of slicer software that can be used for 3D printing. Here are the best-known and most frequently used programmes that support different requirements and printer models:

► Ultimaker Cura

Software

Description: One of the best known and most widely used open source slicer software. Easy to use but powerful for advanced users.

Operating system: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Large community and regular updates.
• Compatible with most 3D printers.
• Advanced print profiles for many materials.
• Cost: Free of charge.

► PrusaSlicer

Software

Description: Developed by Prusa Research, based on Slic3r, but significantly extended and optimised. Ideal for Prusa printers, but also suitable for other devices.

Operating system: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Optimised for multi-material printing.
• Support for SLA and FDM printers
• Extensive setting options.
• Costs: Free of charge.

simplify3D

Description: A commercial slicer software with a large number of functions and a user-friendly interface. Particularly popular with professional users.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Very precise control over print parameters.
• Supports a wide range of printers.
• Powerful support structure functionality.
• Costs: Chargeable (one-off licence fee).

► Slic3r

Software

Description: Open source slicer that offers many advanced features. The basis for PrusaSlicer.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Modular structure for extensions.
• Supports multi-extrusion printing.
• Costs: Free of charge.

► ChiTuBox

Software

Description: Specialised software for SLA and resin printers, particularly popular with users of Elegoo and Anycubic printers.

Platforms: Windows, macOS.

Highlights:

• Optimised for resin printing.
• Simple operation for precise support structure creation.
• Costs: Basic version free of charge, Pro version for a fee.

► Lychee Slicer

Software

Description: Another popular software for resin and SLA printers, characterised by its intuitive operation and support structure tools.

Platforms: Windows, macOS.

Highlights:

• Ideal for detailed models.
• Automatic and manual support.
• Costs: Basic version free of charge, Pro version for a fee.

► KISSlicer

Software

Description: Stands for "Keep It Simple Slicer" and is aimed at both beginners and professionals with detailed settings.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Supports multi-extrusion.
• Advanced print settings.
• Costs: Basic version free of charge, Pro version for a fee.

► MatterControl

Software

Description: A versatile slicer that also integrates functions for model editing and printer management.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Integrated CAD editor.
• Cloud management for print jobs.
• Costs: Free of charge.

► FlashPrint

Software

Description: Developed by FlashForge for their 3D printers, but is also suitable for other models.

Platforms: Windows, macOS.

Highlights:

• Easy to use.
• Good integration with FlashForge printers.
• Costs: Free of charge.

► Repetier-Host

Software

Description: A versatile software that can be used as both a slicer and a printer manager.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Support for multiple slicing engines (e.g. CuraEngine, Slic3r).
• Direct printer management possible.
• Costs: Free of charge.

► ideaMaker

Software

Description: Developed by Raise3D, this software is suitable for both their printers and other devices.

Platforms: Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• User-friendly interface.
• Good material profiles.
• Costs: Free of charge.

► AstroPrint

Software

Description: A cloud-based solution that simplifies slicing and printer control.

Platforms: Web browser, Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Integration into the cloud.
• Remote control of printers.
• Costs: Basic version free of charge, extended functions for a fee.

► OctoPrint

Software

Description: Technically not a pure slicer, but a printer management software that supports slicer plugins such as Cura or Slic3r.

Platforms: Raspberry Pi, Windows, macOS, Linux.

Highlights:

• Remote control and monitoring of printers.
• Open source with many extensions.
• Costs: Free of charge.

This selection offers a suitable solution for almost every application and every level of experience. Whether for beginners, advanced users or professionals - the choice of software depends on the specific requirements and printer model.

With the latest 3D printers with state-of-the-art technology, it is not necessary to manually level the print bed before each print. Nowadays, automatic levelling systems perform this task automatically. These systems measure the print bed precisely at several points and compensate for unevenness by adjusting the Z offset.

If your printer does not have an automatic levelling system, you should level the print bed regularly, especially if:

• you have transported the printer,
• you have installed a new build plate or
• the adhesion of the first layer is no longer optimal.

For best results, it is recommended that you always carry out manual levelling when setting up a new printer, even if the printer has an automatic system.

If filament builds up on the nozzle, you should first check the bed levelling, as a nozzle that is set too close can rub off the filament. Clean the nozzle by carefully removing the built-up filament at printing temperature with tweezers or a soft cloth or by using a cleaning needle. A cold pull with special filament (e.g. nylon or PLA) can also help to remove impurities from the nozzle. Make sure that the print temperature is set correctly - neither too low nor too high - and clean the print bed to improve adhesion. Use a bonding agent if necessary. If necessary, reduce the print speed and material flow to ensure that the filament is extruded evenly.

If you notice that the nozzle is damaged or worn after cleaning, replace it. Regular maintenance and suitable print settings effectively prevent this problem.

If the filament is torn or broken, you can take the following steps to rectify the problem and prevent further breakage:

1. Pause the printing process

If the printer is currently running, pause the printing process. Many modern 3D printers have a resume function or a filament sensor that automatically pauses printing if the filament runs out or breaks.

2. Remove filament

Carefully remove the torn filament from the extruder. If part of the filament is still in the hotend, heat the printer to the appropriate temperature for the material (e.g. PLA: 200 °C) and push the remaining piece out.

3. Reconnect the filament or insert new filament

If there is a small tear: If the filament is only slightly torn, cut the area cleanly and reinsert the filament.

If completely broken: Replace the filament piece with a new filament or connect it with a filament welding method, e.g. using the SUNLU Filament Connector.

4. Check for possible causes

A torn or broken filament often indicates problems:

• Moisture: filament that has absorbed moisture becomes brittle. Dry it in a filament dryer or at a low temperature in the oven (e.g. 50-60 °C for PLA).
• Filament guide: Check whether the filament roll runs smoothly and does not cause any hangs.
• Clogged extruder: Excessive resistance in the extruder can cause filament breakage.
• Belt tensioner too tight: Make sure that the filament feed mechanism is not set too tightly, as this can damage the filament.

5. Continue printing

After the filament has been replaced or repaired, you can resume the printing process if your printer has a resume function.

Split layers, also known as layer delamination, occur when the individual print layers of the 3D print do not adhere sufficiently to each other. This leads to the layers separating or visible cracks appearing.

Common causes of split layers

► Too low printing temperature: If the printing temperature is too low, the filament cannot melt properly, which reduces the adhesion between the layers.

Solution: Increase the printing temperature gradually within the recommended temperature ranges of the filament.

► Draughts or uneven cooling: Particularly with materials such as ABS or ASA, cold air leads to rapid cooling of the layers, resulting in stresses and cracks.

Solution:

• Reduce the use of fans (e.g. 0-20 % cooling for ABS).
• Use a closed installation space or a printer with housing.

unfavourable printing speed: Excessively high printing speeds reduce the time in which the filament adheres sufficiently to the previous layer.

Solution: Reduce the printing speed. Slower printing is particularly advantageous for thicker layers (e.g. 0.3 mm).

► Layer height and extrusion settings: Too high a layer height in relation to the nozzle width leads to a poor bond between the layers.

Solution: Reduce the layer height (e.g. max. 80 % of the nozzle diameter). Ensure that the extrusion rate is set correctly to convey sufficient material.

►Moisture: Moist filament can be poorly extruded and impair adhesion between the layers.

Solution: Dry the filament before printing (e.g. in a filament dryer or oven).

►Incorrect levelling of the print bed: If the first layer does not adhere properly, subsequent layers may be unstable and split.

Solution: Check the bed levelling and the Z-offset settings.

►Material selection and build chamber temperature: Certain materials such as ABS or nylon require higher build chamber temperatures to ensure adhesion.

Solution:

• Use a heated print chamber or housing.
• Ensure that the heating bed temperature is set correctly (e.g. ABS: 90-110 °C).

Resin printing, also known as stereolithography (SLA) or masked stereolithography apparatus (MSLA), is a form of 3D printing that uses UV-sensitive liquid resin to produce highly precise and detailed objects.

The resin printer creates the model layer by layer. The individual layers are created by curing the resin with UV light or a laser. An LCD display (with MSLA printers) or a laser (with SLA printers) exposes the desired shape of the layer. After each cured layer, the build platform lowers by a defined layer height so that the next layer can be exposed.

After printing, the model is still slightly sticky and must be post-cured with UV light (e.g. in a wash & cure station) in order to fully cure and be stable.

Advantages:

• significantly higher resolution and level of detail
• smooth surfaces
• ideal for complex geometries (miniatures, jewellery, medical applications)

Disadvantages

• higher material costs
• printed models must be cleaned and post-cured
• careful handling with resin and protective equipment

Choosing the right resin printer is crucial for success in 3D printing. Here are some important criteria that can help you make the right choice:

Print resolution and detail:

• XY resolution: resolution determines the fineness of detail a printer can reproduce. For fine prints, a high resolution (e.g. 35-50 microns) is ideal.
• Z-axis accuracy: Layer thicknesses of 10-50 micrometres are common and influence the smoothness of the surfaces.
• Caution: With larger build areas, the resolution is distributed so that an 8K printer does not automatically deliver more detailed results than a 4K model with the same precision!

Print volume:

• Resin printers often have a smaller build volume than FDM printers.

► Small figures or jewellery: A smaller build volume is sufficient.

► Larger prototypes or components: A printer with a larger volume makes sense.

Light source and technology

• Monochrome LCDs: These are more durable, allow shorter exposure times (1-2 seconds per layer) and therefore cure resin faster than older colour displays. Note, however, that special resins such as heat-resistant variants may take longer to cure.
• UV light source: High-quality light sources ensure even curing and better print quality.

Ease of use:

• Easy calibration: Make sure the printer is easy to set up and calibrate.
• Touch screen and intuitive software: User-friendly controls and clear interfaces make it easy to get started.
• Slicer software: Good printers offer customised slicer software that is optimised for the device.

Material selection:

• Choose the resin that best suits your project. Make sure that your printer supports the desired resin.
• Note that each resin has specific processing instructions.

To get started with resin printing safely, there are some important points you should consider.

► Here are some tips:

The most important thing is to set up a suitable workspace for your resin 3D printer. A separate, well-ventilated workspace is ideal to avoid soiling and contamination.

A clean environment minimises the risk of dust or foreign particles in the print.

The printer should be placed on a flat and stable surface.

Direct sunlight should be avoided as UV light can cure the resin.

Resin is toxic. Always use nitrile gloves, safety goggles and, if necessary, a respirator.

Avoid skin contact with resin and clean up spillages immediately!

To get started safely with resin 3D printing, you need not only the printer itself but also some basic equipment to be able to work safely and efficiently. Firstly, you need consumables such as liquid resin, which should be selected to match the desired printer. It is advisable to observe the safety measures, as resin can be irritating to the skin and eyes. Protective gloves, preferably made of nitrile, and safety goggles are therefore essential. A breathing mask may also be useful to protect against vapours.

Isopropanol or a similar cleaner is required for post-processing the prints in order to remove excess resin from the printed objects. A suitable tub or container for washing the parts is also important. To finalise the curing of the models, a UV lamp or UV curing device is used, ideally in combination with a rotating platform for even exposure.

Furthermore, practical aids such as spatulas, brushes, paper towels and silicone mats can be helpful to keep the workplace clean and facilitate the handling of the prints. Optionally, a cover or protective sleeve for the printer can also be useful to keep out dust and ensure print quality.

With this basic equipment, nothing stands in the way of a successful start to resin 3D printing!

There are various types of resin, which differ in their properties and applications. Here is an overview of the most common types and their uses:

• Standard resin: Easy to work with, suitable for beginners. Ideal for prototypes, figures and models with fine details.

• Tough resin: Higher toughness, more resistant to breakage and impact. Ideal for functional prototypes, mechanical components and housings.

• Flexible resin: High elasticity, similar to rubber. Ideal for seals, handles, elastic parts.

• High-temperature resin: Heat-resistant and dimensionally stable at high temperatures. Ideal for moulds, technical prototypes, components for hot environments.

• Dental resin: Especially for medical applications. Ideal for dental splints, prostheses, surgical aids.

• Water-washable resin: Can be cleaned with water instead of isopropanol. Has similar properties to standard resin. Ideal for models and prototypes for the simple printing process.

Finding the right exposure time for your resin printer is crucial for successful prints, as exposure times that are too short or too long can lead to printing errors. Here are some steps and tips to find the optimal exposure times:

►Check manufacturer's instructions: Most resin manufacturers provide recommended exposure times for their products, depending on the printer type and light source.

► Perform test prints with calibration models: Use calibration models that have been specially developed for setting the exposure time. These models use different test ranges to show which exposure time delivers the best results: Exposure times that are too short result in incomplete details or the layers peel off; exposure times that are too long cause details to appear blurred and resin to adhere to the FEP film. Use calibration models such as:

• Resin Exposure Finder V2
• Resin XP2 Validation Matrix
• Phrozen XP Finder
• Photocentric XY Full Test
• Ameralabs Town Print

►Determine starting values: Start with a value in the middle of the manufacturer's recommended range (e.g. if the recommended exposure time is between 2.5 and 3 seconds, start with 2.7 seconds and vary as needed).

►Set base and layer exposure: While the first layers require longer exposure times (approx. 20-30 seconds) to adhere well to the build platform, a shorter standard time (approx. 2-3 seconds) can be used for the regular layers.

►Consider influencing factors:

• LCD type: Monochrome LCDs cure resin faster than colour displays, so adjust the exposure time accordingly.
• Resin type: Viscous or opaque resins require longer times; transparent or low-viscosity resins often require shorter times.
• Print height: Larger prints may require an adjustment of the base exposure time to ensure strong adhesion.

►Use software tools: Some slicer programs offer presets for certain resin printer combinations.

► Access tips from the community: In online forums, groups and on Discord, other users often share their optimised exposure times for specific printer and resin combinations. Use this information.

If your print adheres to the FEP film instead of the build platform, this usually indicates problems with the adhesion of the first layers. Here are possible causes and solutions:

►Clean the build platform

Problem: Soiling or old resin residue can impair adhesion.

Solution: Clean the building platform thoroughly with isopropanol (min. 90 %). Ensure that the surface is dry and free of grease.

► Check the FEP film

Problem: A damaged or dirty FEP film can cause the resin to adhere to it.

Solution: Check the FEP film for scratches, holes or soiling. Clean the FEP film carefully with isopropanol. If necessary, replace the FEP film.

► Roughen the build platform

Problem: A smooth build platform can lead to adhesion problems.

Solution: Use fine sandpaper to slightly roughen the surface. Clean the platform thoroughly afterwards.

calibrate the build platform correctly

Cause: If the build platform is not levelled correctly, the first layers will not have sufficient contact.

Solution: Follow your printer's instructions for calibrating the build platform. Use a sheet of paper or a calibration card to set the correct distance between the build platform and the LCD display.

► Increase the basic exposure time

Problem: Too short exposure time for the first layers can lead to poor adhesion.

Solution: Increase the base exposure time in small steps (e.g. by 5-10 seconds) until adhesion is guaranteed. Typical base exposure time: 20-40 seconds, depending on resin and printer.

► Adjust base layers

Problem: Too few or too thin base layers can lead to insufficient adhesion.

Solution: Increase the number of base layers (typically: 5-8 layers). Choose a thicker layer height for the base (e.g. 0.05-0.1 mm).

► Mix the resin thoroughly

Problem: Insufficiently mixed resin can lead to poor adhesion.

Solution: Shake the resin bottle thoroughly before use. Stir the resin carefully in the tank without creating air bubbles.

► Check build platform position

Problem: The build platform may not start deep enough in the resin.

Solution: Make sure that the build platform presses lightly on the FEP film during calibration (with slight resistance on the calibration sheet).

► Avoid curing of the FEP film

Problem: UV light can cure resin residues on the FEP film and lead to adhesion problems.

Solution: Carefully remove hardened residue from the FEP film using a plastic spatula. Avoid direct sunlight or UV light in the vicinity of the printer.

► Preheat the print bed

Problem: At low room temperatures, resin can become more viscous and impair adhesion.

Solution: Ensure that the room temperature is at least 20-25 °C. Consider preheating the resin slightly (e.g. with a heater).

A white layer on resin prints is a common problem that occurs when liquid resin on the surface of the model is not completely removed. This results in unsightly white spots when curing.

A common reason for this is inadequate cleaning after printing. If residues of liquid resin remain on the model, they can form a white layer during post-processing or curing. To avoid this, the model should be thoroughly cleaned in isopropanol (at least 90 % purity). A washing unit or an ultrasonic cleaner can be very helpful here. It is also important to change the cleaning agent regularly to prevent soiling.

Another cause could be curing under unfavourable conditions. For example, if the model is still damp or has residues of isopropanol, this can lead to a white or milky layer. The model should therefore be completely dried before curing. Ideally, you should cure the model in a dry, controlled environment or even under water to ensure even curing.

Also avoid overexposure to UV light for too long, as this can also cause a white layer. It is advisable to adjust the curing time to the resin manufacturer's specifications.

The quality of the resin used also plays a role, of course. Some resins tend to form a white layer under certain conditions. Therefore, use high-quality resins and make sure that they are stored in a cool, dark place. Before use, the resin should be shaken thoroughly to distribute pigments and additives evenly, as an uneven mixture can also lead to poor curing.

The environment also has an influence. High humidity during curing can cause a reaction with the resin, resulting in a white layer. It is therefore important to cure the model in a dry room and to use a dehumidifier if necessary.

The service life of the LCD screen of a resin printer depends on the type of screen, usage and operating conditions. In general, however, the following applies:

• Monochrome LCDs have a longer life of approximately 2000-4000 hours of operation. They ensure faster curing and higher efficiency, making them more durable than colour LCDs.
• Older printer models often use colour LCDs with an average lifespan of 500-1000 hours of operation. These screens have a shorter shelf life and slower curing.

The durability of FEP film depends heavily on its use and care. It is therefore difficult to determine a generalised service life. Factors that influence the service life are

• Frequency of use: Intensive use shortens the service life.
• Care: Careful cleaning and avoidance of scratches can extend the service life.
• Printing parameters: Incorrect calibration or excessive pressure can cause the film to wear out faster.
• Type of resin: Some resins attack the film more than others.

If you notice that the print quality is deteriorating or the film has visible damage such as scratches or dents, it should be replaced. Replacement FEP films are usually inexpensive and easy to change.

The difference between FEP film and ACF film lies in the material properties and their application:

► FEP film (Fluorinated Ethylene Propylene)

Material properties:

• Transparent, chemical-resistant, heat-resistant and flexible.
• High light transmission, especially for UV light, which makes it ideal for resin printers.
• Slippery surface, making it easier to release the printed model.

Application:

• Used as standard in resin 3D printers to form the release layer between the resin and the build platform.
• Easily replaceable and durable when well maintained.

► ACF film

Material properties:

• Improved mechanical strength and heat resistance compared to FEP.
• Often optimised adhesion properties to minimise certain printing problems such as "sticking" of models.
• Usually less flexible and with a higher load-bearing capacity.

Application:

• Can be used as an upgrade for FEP films to achieve better results in certain printing scenarios (e.g. very large models or special resins).

The correct FEP film should always be larger than the build platform of the printer. This ensures that it can be stretched over the tank. Excess material can then be cut off - this is completely normal.

How to find the right FEP size:

• Measure the building platform: Determine the dimensions of your build platform.
• Select FEP size: Choose an FEP sheet that is at least 60 mm larger on each side.

If resin gets on the printer's LCD screen, you should act quickly and carefully to avoid damage. Here are some steps you can follow:

1.Switch off and disconnect the printer: Switch off and unplug the printer immediately to avoid electrical damage and safety hazards.

2.Wear protective equipment: Wear disposable gloves and avoid skin contact with the resin. Resin can be toxic and irritating to the skin.

3.Remove resin: Carefully wipe off the spilt resin with a soft, lint-free cloth or paper towel. Take care not to spread the resin any further.

4. Clean the screen: Use a suitable cleaning agent: Isopropanol (IPA) with an alcohol content of 90 % or higher is ideal for gently removing resin. Soak a soft cloth lightly with IPA and wipe the screen carefully. Avoid excessive rubbing or scratching as this could damage the LCD screen.

5.Check: Check whether the resin has penetrated other parts of the printer, e.g. the electronics or neighbouring areas. Also clean these with extreme care if necessary.

6.Avoid curing: Do not leave the printer in direct sunlight or UV light while cleaning as the resin will harden on the screen and become harder to remove.

7.Test run: Once the screen is clean and dry, check that it is working properly by carefully switching the printer back on.

Additional tips:

• If the resin has already hardened or the screen has been damaged, the LCD screen may need to be replaced.
• For future prints, we recommend using a protective resin cloth or film to protect the screen from dirt and leaking resin.

The 3DJake Resin Colourants have been specially developed for use with 3DJake Color Mix Resin. As the chemical composition and viscosity of resins can vary, it is advisable to use these colourants only with the recommended Color Mix Resin in order to achieve optimum printing results.

Compatibility with other resins has not yet been tested. If you want to experiment, we recommend mixing a small amount first and testing the results with a text print.

If the surface of an object printed with resin remains sticky and soft after UV post-curing, this is often due to insufficient curing or insufficient cleaning before post-curing. After printing, residues of liquid resin can remain on the object, which must be thoroughly removed. Careful cleaning with isopropanol (IPA) or a similar cleaning fluid is crucial to remove excess resin. Areas that are difficult to access, such as recesses or gaps, should also be thoroughly cleaned, as resin often accumulates there.

Only after complete cleaning should the model be cured under UV light. Here it is important to use a UV lamp with sufficient strength (365-405 nm wavelength) and to expose the model for long enough. If the surface remains sticky, the exposure time should be extended, as insufficiently cured resin is often the cause. It is also helpful to rotate the model during the curing process to ensure that all sides are treated evenly. For thicker models or special resins, it may be necessary to carry out the process in several steps, as UV light cannot penetrate deep into the material.

In addition, the ambient temperature during post-curing should ideally be between 20 and 25 degrees Celsius to optimise the process. Low-quality resin or an unsuitable combination of resin and printer can also lead to problems. In such cases, it is advisable to use high-quality resin that has been specially developed for the printer used.

A combination of thorough cleaning, correct UV post-curing and the use of high-quality resin can effectively prevent a sticky and soft surface.

Visible layers on a resin 3D print model, also known as "layer lines", can be caused by several factors.

One common reason is an insufficiently fine layer height. The greater the layer height selected, the more clearly the individual layers become visible. To reduce this, you should reduce the layer height in the print settings. A smaller layer height results in a smoother surface, but extends the printing time.

Another reason may lie in the mechanics of the printer. Irregularities in the Z-axis - such as loose screws, inaccurate guides or an incorrectly functioning Z-axis motor - can lead to visible layer lines. It is therefore best to check the mechanics, make sure that all parts are tight and service the printer regularly.

The exposure time also plays a role. If the exposure time is too short, the layers cannot cure completely, resulting in uneven transitions. Check the recommended settings for the resin used and adjust the exposure time if necessary.

Another possible factor is UV homogeneity. If the UV light does not hit the resin evenly, there may be visible differences between the layers. Check that the LCD screen and the printer's light source are working properly.

Software-related problems can also cause layer lines. For example, incorrect settings for the support structures in the slicer software or insufficient model orientation can lead to unclean layers. Make sure to position the model optimally and select the correct settings for support structures.

To avoid visible layers, it is important to carefully check and adjust both the mechanical and software settings of the printer. If the problem persists, reworking the model, such as sanding or priming, can help to smooth the surface.

If your 3D printed object does not adhere to the support structures, this is often due to problems with the print settings, the design of the supports or the material properties of the resin.

A common reason is insufficient exposure time. If the exposure time is too short, the supports or their contact points do not harden sufficiently so that they are not strong enough to hold the model. To remedy this, you can increase the exposure time for the bottom layers and the total exposure time for the support structures.

The shape and size of the contact points between the supports and the model are also crucial. If the contact surfaces are too small or insufficiently dimensioned, they cannot support the model reliably. The size and density of the contact points can be adjusted in the slicer software to achieve better adhesion. Make sure that the support structures are sufficiently stable, especially with heavier or larger models.

Another possible reason is incorrect positioning of the model. If the model is positioned at an unfavourable angle, the supports may be loaded unevenly, causing the object to detach from them. Position the model so that it is evenly supported and use a sufficient number of support structures.

The material properties of the resin also play a role, of course. Some resins have a lower adhesion, which makes the connection between the object and the supports more difficult. Make sure that you use a high-quality resin that is suitable for your printer and your application. If possible, you can also try a resin with better adhesion properties.

Finally, improper cleaning of the model or build platform can exacerbate the problem. Residue from uncured resin or dirt can prevent the support structures from adhering effectively. Clean all surfaces thoroughly before you start printing.

By adjusting the exposure times, support structure design and positioning of the model, as well as using a suitable resin, the adhesion problem can usually be solved. If the problem persists, also check the mechanical stability of the printer, especially the Z-axis and the build platform.